VISIT TO UNEXPLORED SEA FORTS AND BEACHES OF MURUD HARNAI: Western Coast Maharashtra, India

We were watching across the vast expense of the Arabian sea towards the awesome island fort of Suvarnadurga partially obscured by thick woods. From Harnai beach and surrounded by the sea from all sides, it looked sinister!. A queer feeling of being drawn towards passed through my body. It was calling-come and be in me !

Our local guide, Gopal Rao explained-The Suvarnadurga Fort was built by The Great Shivaji Maharaj 400 years back to counter "Siddis" of Murud-Janjira, off Harnai coast but was also used as a defence against Europeans interests. In mid 18Th century, it was the base of Maratha Admiral Tulaji Angre and later was destroyed by British (William James) on April2,1755. It had been haunted since then (as told) and even locals were reluctant to venture due to fear of the wild animals, snakes and the unknown!

Phew!

We had come to Harnai beach by an auto-rickshaw after dumping our luggage and car at the Kamat Resort situated close to an another one, the pristine Murud beach (4km; not to be confused with Murud-Janjira near Alibaug). I wondered how many historical war torn forts were built on this amazing western coast line of India! I cursed! A shame on me, I thought . Being an educated Indian how hopelessly poor I was in knowing my own country, a wonderland called India!

The dusk was slowly creeping in and with it came a large number of fishing boats back to shore with their catches. Soon the auction started with village folk bidding madly! As it was getting crowded, we left the beach and headed towards, recommended by the guide, to an eating joint, Laxmi Hotel for an early dinner. The strong aroma of food excited Tommy Singh to see what was cooking! We went inside kitchen with the permission of the owner. With our eyes popping, we watched Masala Bhat (rice fried with spices and vegetables), Usal (boiled black gram and sprouted gram fried with Konkani spices, grated coconut and groundnut). We ordered a vegetarian Thali shown in the picture above( thin Indian bread, rice, vegetables, sol kadi, with pickles etc. served in a large stainless steel plate) washing it down with Limca ( lime soda). Price-only Rs. 40/- ($1.00)!! My God! What a delicious meal!

Back to the Kamath Resort, we asked for a Maharashtrian sweet dish-a cold Mango Shreekhand made with the sweet hung yogurt with mango pulp. After all we were in the world famous Alphonso mango country! It was wonderful!

The weather suddenly took a turn when we were sitting outside our cottage in an enclosure. That was unusual during the winter months, I thought as I looked around while sipping my coffee. The drama unfolded. The wind increased. A streak of lightening followed by the drums of thunder. Then started pitter-patter of rains. I remembered when as a child I would try to catch as many droplets as I could in my mouth. In those first onset of Monsoon I would wonder what happened to birds in their nests! I looked at the dark sky hoping for an another lightening.....

Early next morning the weather cleared and we went to Murud beach, close to our resort. It was fabulous! A palm fringed beach, clean, quite with a firm white sand under your feet. A salubrious breeze welcomed us. We took a boat ride in the sea and my goodness! We saw the most unexpected friends. WE MET DOLPHINS! Great! It was our most joyful moment. Tommy Singh stood up on the boat and started singing an old Hindi film song with his arms spread!

We jumped in to waters kicking and laughing once we knew that it's safe to swim. Spent may be an hour or so in the waters. Returning back to the resort we had, for a change, lunch with Punjabi dishes and then left to see Harnai fort, Shri Durga Devi Temple which had a huge Portuguese bell. Later we left for our next destination, leaving the heavenly Murud-Harnai beaches with a heart heavier than anything else we had!

Route: By road- Mumbai-Panvel-Mahad-Khed-Dapoli-Murud Harnai ( time-6-7 hrs)

(Note- we had come by a coastal road); Railway station is at Khed

Stay: It is suggested to stay at Dapoli which has good hotels. The choice is limited in Anjarle, Harnai and Murud. Contact- http://maharastratourism.gov.in